Set Up of drains pipes, this is your program plan







Set Up of drains pipes, this is your program plan

The most significant thing that you have to worry about while taking on any DIY plumbing and drainage work are the Local Authority regulations which they actively monitor.

Detailed plans of any changing or installing of drainage in your home will have to be submitted, and expect ongoing inspections until its completion to ensure that the work abides by the regulations. If you are simply replacing damaged sections of the drainage, in most circumstances they do not need to be informed.

When rain falls on your house and property, it runs across as surface water and has to be drained properly. An earlier method was to directly discharge this surface water into the sewage drains, but modern homes use a surface water sewer or watercourse or soakaway to drain or absorb rainwater. If gully traps are fixed at the junction of the rainwater pipe and the waste water drain, foul odour can be controlled. Nowadays hygiene and recycling considerations have led to a mandatory separation of surface water and sewage water. If you have a modern system it is very essential that you make sure that you do not accidentally integrate the foul water to a surface water drainage system. The Building Regulation Department will be able to guide you on any details or procedures you may require for repairs or replacement of your drainage.

Of course, the first thing you should do is plan the layout of the waste pipes. Sewage pipes must be aligned as straight as possible, with inspection chambers at short intervals. Also, make sure none of the pipes are laid at too steep an angle. Using surveyor’s site level you can calculate the fall of a drain over a distance to check the values. In the absence of one of these, create a datum point and set levels with a hosepipe filled with water and compute the fall from the datum in this manner.

You will need to see to it that you do not impact on the stability of the building whilst installing your drain ditch. Keep the drain excavation at a uniformly safe distance from the home face to avoid damage to the foundation.

The pipes should be laid before too long a ditch is dug as a new ditch can be unstable. Make certain that the pipes are laid as soon as possible and then bury them immediately after the testing and inspection are completed.

The ditch may need to be supported depending on the depth and soil conditions. It is advisable to take proper precautions. If you are not entirely confident of the stability of the trench you should add support. Make sure that you leave enough room in the ditch for you to work but try to keep it as small as possible. The trench base must be smooth and clean, there shouldn’t be any bricks or protruding stones around. You may need to import a suitable material for the base of the ditch if the existing material is unsuitable.

Pipework must be uniformly supported by the soil bed, and not by stones or bricks haphazardly placed underneath the pipes. This should not be used as support for the short or the long run because it will damage the pipe, the pipe needs to be fully supported over its full lenght. For accommodation of the joints in the pipes,the bedding should be compacted in a regular way with hollows made a appropriate points. For the complete pipe length you have to provide a continuous and uniform support.

When designing your drainage system, it is important to make all parts of the pipework reachable via a set of drain rods should a blockage occur. This need for drain rod access can be easily achieved by keeping the pipeline straight and in short sections. As a rule of thumb, a directional change in the pipework must have an inspection chamber for rodding access as drain rods do no go around corners.

Keeping these points in mind, you can carry out your own sewage and plumbing work smoothly and almost professionally.

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