Drains installing, what to do first







Drains installing, what to do first

Before you undertake DIY plumbing and drains work it is essential to understand the national rules and regulations developed by the local authority.

You will have to present detailed plans for the proposed drainage work when you are changing existing sewage system or installing a new drainage system, and also need regular inspections to be undertaken to ensure that the plans are following the local building regulations during progressing each phase of the work. However you don’t need to inform them if you are just replacing some damaged parts.

If you hear the term ’surface water’ in any sewage documents this basically means rain. It can drain out through a soakaway, watercourse, surface water sewer or, especially in older houses, into the dirty water sewage pipes. To stop any nasty odours emanating from the drains a combined system will discharge the surface water into the foul water drains by way of the gully traps. Nowadays hygiene and recycling considerations have led to a mandatory separation of surface water and sewage water. To comply with modern planning regulations you should always make sure that the foul water and surface water drainage system do not connect. When in doubt about the how the modern drainage system works, consult the Building Control Department.

The first thing to do in a DIY sewage replacement job is to decide the position and level of the waste pipework. Keeping the path as straight and short as possible will be the main concept behind the design of the waste passageways or pipes. You must avoid making your pipe runs too steep. Use the surveyor’s site level to calculate the drain fall over the complete system. If you do not have one of these available, establish a datum point and use a hose filled with water to establish levels and calculate the fall from the datum this way.

The stability of the existing building is of prime importance it should be not compromised while the drainage trench is being installed so check you are not impacting on the existing structure. Keep the drain excavation at a uniformly safe distance from the home face to avoid damage to the substructure.

Try to leave as short a time as possible between digging the trench and installing the drainage system as an empty trench represents a danger with the potential for a sidewall collapse. You should attempt to get the pipes laid as soon as possible and, after inspection and checking, you should back fill the ditch.

Weak soil may require that you shore up the walls of the excavation, particularly for deeper trenches. Avoid risks when working in the ditch. It is better to provide support to the trench walls than allowing the trench to collapse. Keep the trench as narrow as you can but of course make sure that there is enough room to work in the ditch including any plan, machinery or tools you require. Be sure to remove any stones or bricks from the ditch bed and make it as even as possible. If the existing soil is too weak or clayey, you should place and compact a layer of firmer soil at the base of the trench to prevent later sinking.

For pipe support do not use bricks or other hard materials in the trench. Even if used for just a temporary support this can damage the pipe. The bedding should be properly compacted with hollows made to accommodate the joints in the pipes. The support should be smooth and even, from the beginning of the pipe to its end.

When designing your sewage system, it is important to make all parts of the pipework reachable via a set of drain rods should a blockage occur. Therefore, a run of drains should be as straight as possible between two points. An inspection chamber should be present at places where the pipework changes its direction, this is important so that it remains accessible to drain rods and they do not need to go around corners.

If you follow this guidance, sewage and DIY plumbing can be within the range of the most DIY enthusiasts.

Posted in Drain


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